eye makeup application

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Learn the basics of eye makeup application beginning with determining the shape of your eyes.

PROTRUDING or BULGING EYE - The goal here is to recess the eyelid, from seemingly to protrude. Uses a dark toned eye shadow and blend this over the eyelid, fading color away near eye socket. Apply eyeliner along top lid, and lightly smudge. On lower lid, draw eyeliner at outer corner only and smudge softly. Apply highlighter on brow line. Please don�t use light or frosted colors on eyelid, as this will make eyes pop out further. With this eye shape, finish off with some navy or deep gray pencil on inner rims to help make the eyeballs appear smaller.

CLOSE SET EYES - These need a dark shadow blended into out half of the eyes to give illusion that they are further apart. Start by drawing your pencil out a little just above natural eye crease. Now blend a strong color into the outer area. The inner top lid area can be left natural or a pale color can be used if you like. When applying mascaras, brush your top lashes outwards, concentrating on the color with an extra coat on outer lashes

WIDE SET EYES - Can appear closer set and more attractive if you emphasize the inner eye area with color to draw eyes together. Apply eyeliner pencil all way across the bottom lid with only a tiny extension on the outer corners. Apply any strong colored shadow to your outer socket line, but instead of extending it up and out, angle it towards your inner brows. Further enhance this with a lighter shade on your inner lid and complete the look with mascara concentrating on inner lashes.

SMALL EYES - to recognize this as your shape, there seems to be very little space between lashes and eyebrows, so we need to give the appearance of a much larger eye. Apply a light color on the eyelid. Use a darker shade in the socket (or crease) of eye and bring this color to the outer corner to lengthen eye area. With dark toned eyeliner, outline eye, intensifying color slightly at outer edges of eye, then slightly smudge. Use a light highlighter along the brow bone to add width to eye.

DEEP SET EYES - This type appears like a hooded eye. Place a light colored shadow over entire lid, and apply a highlighter along the brow bone line. Use a darker toned shadow, and begin at the socket line and blend color out above the crease to recess the area. Use a small amount of eyeliner, in a thin line for definition only along top lid and 2/3'rds along lower lid blending towards the outer edge.

ASIAN EYE SHAPE - usually has a minimal eyelid and eyes are wide space. Gently brush a light or neutral color over eye area and blend towards nose area. Using a darker shadow, apply to lid, starting along lash line, and fading the color upwards and out to a half-way pint between lash and eyebrow. Apply eyeliner close to lashes to give appearance of thickened lash line. Line the lower lid and smudge to soften the line.

NORMAL EYES - If you are fortunate enough to have this shape you can be as adventurous as you like. What you should be aiming for with eye makeup is to make your eyes look even more attractive by giving them strength with the help of eyeliner pencil. A pale color can be blended on lid while a darker shade is smoothed into the outer corners and socket line to give more depth and character. Finish off with a coat of mascara.

DROOPY EYES - These need to be lifted at the sides with the help of clever shading on the outer areas of the top lid. A little extra eyeliner slanted upwards on the corners and further blended and subtly extended with shadow plus extra mascara on the top lashes.

AGEING EYES - can look years younger with the help of soft contouring. Use eyeliner pencil around the outer corner of the eyes, making sure that the line is kept thin. Avoid frosted shadows completely. Apply a soft toned shadow, like a mossy green, light brown or gray with a hint of blue in it, to the outer eye area, keeping the color close to the lashes. Use a soft peach color on your inner top lid. Mascara often looks too thick and unnatural on older eyes, so try to have lashed tinted instead OR apply mascara lightly. Then apply your Mascara: Take out the mascara wand and roll it on a tissue to remove any excess product. (Don't pump the wand in the tube -- you'll introduce air and dry out the mascara.) Hold the wand at the base of the lashes, give the wand a wiggle and pull it through the lashes. Build volume with several thin layers rather than a single goopy one. Clumps? Comb them out with an eyelash comb or a disposable plastic wand.

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